I recently took two weeks off, one for school work and one because I was sick… no fun… But I’m back at it! To get into the swing of things I took two gym days. This past weekend though I got out to the blowing rock boulders. Now that it’s gotten a bit colder I’m no longer just casually climbing but starting to actually train. I know everyone trains in the summer but come on, that’s my vacation! Anyways with the training in mind I was just doing a circuit day at Brock, no projects or anything. I warmed up on Tendon Sandwich V5ish and then fired the sit, a V7 or so. Next I repeated Flagyl V10, Preferential Treatment V10, Squeezejob V10, and Room With a View V10. With soft “gym skin” I was pretty torn apart after all those so I bailed. Here’s a picture of Room With a View and I should have some video of it along with Preferential soon too. More training and maybe Sunday Service soon!
photo by Melise Edwards
I got out to BR and GMA recently and did a few more repeats. I did Preferential V10 for a third time and repeated Full Throttle V11 second try. As far as new climbs go I sent AHR V8, Hot Rod V8 with a day flash and Squeeze Job V10. I also got on Sunday Service V11 but I was feeling pretty wrecked already. It’s not my style at all and feels like one of the hardest things I’ve tried… making some progress though! We’re getting hit with a heat wave right now but temps are supposed to drop again soon… we’ll see.
Since my last post the weather in Boone has been amazing. Lots of climbing and no blogging. But here I am! So, I did the right extension to Unwritten Law that I was talking about earlier. It wasn’t nearly as runout as I thought it would be and there’s really no need for another bolt. I think it weighs in at about 5.13a or b and unsurprisingly I found out a few other people have done it aswell. Pat Goodman told me about another line linking tiers to Allah into this right variation and I’m psyched to give it a try.
I worked on another gem Goodman told me about, a highball “V8” put up my some OG sandbaggers back in the day. It doesn’t see much attention and I had to clean it up on rap but apparently it was put up about a decade ago. It’s right off the road and your pads pretty much block traffic but it’s amazing. Interesting movement with a bit of a scare factor. I haven’t put it down yet but I plan to get back on it soon. Maybe catch some video too.
Yesterday I got out to Blowing Rock and had sort of a circuit day. Didn’t have any projects so i just climbed whatever. Repeated Desperate B*tch, Flagyl, and Preferential Treatment. Flagyl and Preferential felt easy whereas last season Preferential felt like one of the hardest problems I’ve sent. I’m looking forward to what this season will bring.
Next up is to get on Sunday Service and that Highball off the road.
I went out to The Dump yesterday to have a chill day sport climbing while most of the boulders were still wet. I was going for a repeat of Ride the Lightning 5.13a which is itself an extension of Unwritten Law 5.12c
an old picture of me on Ride the Lightning
RTL busts out left from the finish of Unwritten Law but as I was attempting it I noticed what looked to be a line finishing out the right side of the wall. It would be another one bolt extension like RTL but it takes you out the prow of the wall which aesthetically makes much more sense. I climbed up to the next bolt on RTL and then lowered back down to try the right variation. It adds some cool toe hook and compression moves and In my opinion is a much better finish than RTL. It feels of similar difficulty but maybe a tad bit harder. I’m going to try and get back on it and just run it out from the anchors on Unwritten Law or maybe place some gear. Eventually though I do want to bolt it so more people can try what I think could be a really cool finish.
Leaves are starting to turn and the air is getting crispy! It’s almost in season in the High Country!
This past Friday Dalen Gray showed me around Linville Gorge. It was my first time there and it blew me away. VAST amounts of boulders to be developed with potential classics everywhere. The hike in/out is pretty brutal and you’re definitely out in the wild. Adventure bouldering through and through.
We warmed up on an interesting looking line with a bit of a scare factor. The actual fall zone isn’t bad but directly next it is a huge drop off.
After backing down a few times from the deadpoint crux we both fired it. Figuring it hadn’t been done before I named it Canadian Mist, after finding a bottle of the good stuff around the landing.
A little liquid courage before a highball perhaps?
Dalen eyeing up Canadian Mist V2
Don’t fall there…
Next we did a cool slopey V3 called Dreamy and then started putting in burns on Fulfillment V10. It sits right next to the water and climbs GREAT. Pull off the ground, lurch, awkward left heel, and THROW for the lip.
There it is
We both did fulfillment and then put in burns on a project right next to it. Possible V10+?
Really interesting rig next to fulfillment
After trying that for awhile we moved on and did a few more random boulders. I managed a flash of Full Power Scram, a V7 on amazing rock.
Lastly we checked out Jimmy Web’s Mechanical Sunset…(sunrise?) a burly but amazing looking V12.
Dalen linked a few moves but my skin was killing me so I didn’t try it much.
We noticed an amazing looking line on the same boulder too.
The Scoop Project V12+?
The projects down there were plentiful and inspiring. People talk about Boone being tapped out but just a short drive takes you to hundreds of V10+ lines just waiting to be sent.
Couldn’t of had a better guide than Dalen and I’m really looking forward to getting back down there with more fitness and colder temps!
I got out and filmed Full Throttle today, should have it up by the end of the weekend. Getting out to Linville Gorge tomorrow too so hopefully that will go well…