Went out to Grayson Highlands last saturday with a big crew. I repeated a few cool lines and put up this FA up the middle of the AVP boulder. It climbs Frontman V5 but instead of finishing out right you do a giant dyno to the top of the boulder. I’m calling it 4WAY FA and it’s probably about V8.

Valley of The Kings

I was exploring around a large boulder at the Valley of The Kings trailhead last winter when I first noticed this line:

 imageValley of the Kings rig

It wasn’t until this summer that I started sussing out the moves. I’ve tried to find out more about it but haven’t really gotten anywhere. It’s generally unheard of but being in boone there’s a really good chance it’s been done already. Regardless, it’s a super crazy bloc that I’m really psyched on.image

The line follows an extremely overhanging arete with compression style moves in the beginning. It then transitions to one side of the arete, still overhanging, and goes to the top. image

It’s really long similar to california-potato-chip or room with a view. It’s also one of the more dynamic climbs I’ve tried in boone. It’s big, gymnastic moves between good edges. The crux involves a sloper so I’m not sure if it would be feasible in the summer but it’s still fun to try.

imageThis is where you pull onto the face. You can see the crux hold sloper as the high right ticked hold.

Hawksbill

A few weeks ago I went to Hawksbill in NC for the first time. The walls are gigantic are super inspiring. Tilly was showing me around and we got on a bunch of awesome slabs. He showed me how to place some gear so that we could try Buckwild a 5.13 mixed route. Buckwild already starts a pitch up so it’s super exposed. The unbolted section is really easy which was nice since it was my first time placing gear. You get a no hands right before entering the bolted crux section so it really climbs like boulder problem. It’s a crimpy traverse to setting up for a HUGE dyno to a bucket. It’s by far one of the coolest most explosive moves I’ve ever seen on rock. Combined with the crazy exposure Buckwild is an amazing route.

After that I wanted to try a full trad line so I got on Carpe Freeum 5.11It was really fun and it makes me want to try way more trad.
After that I onsighted Line of Fire 5.12c, sport route. Looking forward to the next time I can get out there.

Time Off

I gradually shifted to not climbing much at all last semester as I grew kind of bored with bouldering. Since around spring I’ve been slowly getting back into climbing though. I’ve been trying a lot of routes to get psyched again. 

I started off my route kick at the New River Rendezvous but got thoroughly wrecked on anything requiring endurance. I pretty much went bolt to bolt on everything I tried. Since then I’ve been training a decent amount back in boone. My goal for the fall is to send Proper Soul at the NRG.So long as I keep my endurance up this summer. I’ve been trying to get out as much as possible but the weathers been really awful in typical boone fashion.

Horse Tooth Canyon, CO

Been awhile… I was very busy towards the end of last semester so I didn’t climb much. A few days out here and there but nothing noteworthy. Over winter break I got to go to Horse Tooth Canyon with by firend Nick Karasek for a day. A lot of the top outs were snowy but I managed to send a few interesting lines. The picture above is Moon Arete V10 which I really enjoyed.

B rock

I recently took two weeks off, one for school work and one because I was sick… no fun… But I’m back at it! To get into the swing of things I took two gym days. This past weekend though I got out to the blowing rock boulders. Now that it’s gotten a bit colder I’m no longer just casually climbing but starting to actually train. I know everyone trains in the summer but come on, that’s my vacation! Anyways with the training in mind I was just doing a circuit day at Brock, no projects or anything. I warmed up on Tendon Sandwich V5ish and then fired the sit, a V7 or so. Next I repeated Flagyl V10, Preferential Treatment V10, Squeezejob V10, and Room With a View V10. With soft “gym skin” I was pretty torn apart after all those so I bailed. Here’s a picture of Room With a View and I should have some video of it along with Preferential soon too. More training and maybe Sunday Service soon!

photo by Melise Edwards

Repeats

I got out to BR and GMA recently and did a few more repeats. I did Preferential V10 for a third time and repeated Full Throttle V11 second try. As far as new climbs go I sent AHR V8, Hot Rod V8 with a day flash and Squeeze Job V10. I also got on Sunday Service V11 but I was feeling pretty wrecked already. It’s not my style at all and feels like one of the hardest things I’ve tried… making some progress though! We’re getting hit with a heat wave right now but temps are supposed to drop again soon… we’ll see.

Lately

Since my last post the weather in Boone has been amazing. Lots of climbing and no blogging. But here I am! So, I did the right extension to Unwritten Law that I was talking about earlier. It wasn’t nearly as runout as I thought it would be and there’s really no need for another bolt. I think it weighs in at about 5.13a or b and unsurprisingly I found out a few other people have done it aswell. Pat Goodman told me about another line linking tiers to Allah into this right variation and I’m psyched to give it a try.

I worked on another gem Goodman told me about, a highball “V8” put up my some OG sandbaggers back in the day. It doesn’t see much attention and I had to clean it up on rap but apparently it was put up about a decade ago. It’s right off the road and your pads pretty much block traffic but it’s amazing. Interesting movement with a bit of a scare factor. I haven’t put it down yet but I plan to get back on it soon. Maybe catch some video too.

Yesterday I got out to Blowing Rock and had sort of a circuit day. Didn’t have any projects so i just climbed whatever. Repeated Desperate B*tch, Flagyl, and Preferential Treatment. Flagyl and Preferential felt easy whereas last season Preferential felt like one of the hardest problems I’ve sent. I’m looking forward to what this season will bring.

Next up is to get on Sunday Service and that Highball off the road.

Route Potential

I went out to The Dump yesterday to have a chill day sport climbing while most of the boulders were still wet. I was going for a repeat of Ride the Lightning 5.13a which is itself an extension of Unwritten Law 5.12c

image
an old picture of me on Ride the Lightning

RTL busts out left from the finish of Unwritten Law but as I was attempting it I noticed what looked to be a line finishing out the right side of the wall. It would be another one bolt extension like RTL but it takes you out the prow of the wall which aesthetically makes much more sense. I climbed up to the next bolt on RTL and then lowered back down to try the right variation. It adds some cool toe hook and compression moves and In my opinion is a much better finish than RTL. It feels of similar difficulty but maybe a tad bit harder. I’m going to try and get back on it and just run it out from the anchors on Unwritten Law or maybe place some gear. Eventually though I do want to bolt it so more people can try what I think could be   a really cool finish.